reflexiones // reflections

I cannot believe how quickly the past 2 weeks have flown by! I’m sitting at the Rurrenabaque airport waiting for my flight and it feels like everything was just one long, long day. I feel absolutely, completely in awe of how everything worked out. Despite coming to Rurrenabaque with basically no plans and only a couple of contacts, every single thing fell into place. The timing of nearly everything was so impeccable that it’s breathtaking. I can’t help but feel that this time has been enveloped in abundant, magical, amazing grace.

I don’t know how to put my feelings into words, except to say that the past two weeks have been some of the best days of my life. The last time I felt this way was probably after the time I spent in Nueva Trinidad, El Salvador recording oral histories. I feel grateful, whole, purposeful, fulfilled, empowered, content. I think this work might be my calling.

It all started on a Sunday almost exactly two weeks ago, when I showed up in the Plaza Central of Rurrenabaque. It was just starting to sink in that I was here, for real, in the 90 degree heat (plus humidity), sweating, carrying my absurdly large backpack, and with pretty much zero plan of how I was going to film a documentary about the resistance movement against El Bala. And then Alejandra (who I had never met before) appeared. She led me to La Costanera, the street lining the banks of the Río Beni across from the town of San Buenaventura. I had arrived about an hour later than planned (we had to land in the town of Reyes, about 40 minutes away, because to the actual Rurre airport was under construction) but somehow, that ended up being no problem. The meeting ended up starting shortly after Ale and I arrived.

Ale introduced me to many of the people who would become my team for the next few weeks: Valentin Luna, Domingo Ocampo, Alex Villca, and Camila Nay. They, in turn, presented me to a group of some more key people: the dirigentes of almost all of the indigenous communities in the area of Parque Madidi and Pilon Lajas. I was able to introduce myself and explain that I was here to learn about the organisation against the dams and support the efforts of CODA in every way that I could.

I immediately got the subtle but sure feeling that I was in the right place, exactly where I was supposed to be in both time and space. This was only confirmed by the astonishment I felt when I saw that one of the leaders, Domingo, was wearing a baseball cap with a Seattle Mariners logo. Oddly, I noticed that much of the anxiety that I had felt in the days leading up to my trip had dissolved (I probably sweated it out, honestly.) All will be well.

Little did I know just how wonderfully everything would work out. That same day, Camila invited me to stay at her family’s houses (one in Rurrenabque and one in San Miguel) for the next two weeks. So it was settled; I canceled my hotel reservation and I would stay at her house starting the next day. She and Alejandra showed me the office of the community tourism company of San Miguel del Bala, the official CODA (Coordinadora para la Defensa de la Amazonia) headquarters. Little did I know just how many hours I would spend in that little office!

We bonded over a traditional lunch of rice, meat, and Coca Cola—my new diet for the next few weeks. I quickly realised that my usual habits of being vegetarian and not drinking soda were not going to fly here. As we all discussed ideas for my time in Rurre, a plan quickly materialised. I would spend a few days and nights at Camila’s family’s house in San Miguel del Bala, immersing myself in community life and conducting interviews with people about El Bala. I would then spend the rest of my time between Rurrenabaque, the actual canyon of El Bala, and other communities in the area.

My time in Rurre and the communities flew by, with each day fuller and more exciting than the last. I loved the house in San Miguel del Bala, which consisted of a large wooden cabin, and an expansive outdoor area with separate places for eating, cooking, washing dishes, and the bathroom. The entire property was shaded by trees, and the grounds were teeming with life, from the ever-chirping insects and singing birds to the family’s cats, dogs, chickens, cows, and pigs. I became fast friends with the horse, Francisco; the orphaned baby calf, Domingo; and the cats and dogs who soon discovered that I have a weakness for sad, hungry eyes.

In addition to the experience of convivencia (one of those Spanish words that is just right, translating literally to “living-with”), the work itself was incredibly rewarding. I learned so about social movements, about El Bala, and about myself. I met so many amazing people and became friends with the leaders I had only ever read about in newspaper articles. I had the honor and privilege of bearing witness to the very birth of the resistance movement, watching everything develop from a small group to a widespread movement that has now taken root in other cities, including Cochabamba, Santa Cruz, and La Paz. I was able to film over 50 short interviews in addition to hundreds of other videos, spanning from the November 6 meeting to this afternoon’s (November 21) Marcha por la Vida. I felt truly loved, valued and affirmed by the entire community of activists and leaders that make up CODA.

Some days I felt like we were in the war room, plotting our next plan of attack against the enemy forces of Geodata and the Bolivian government. Other days, we were out in the trenches, watching pirate ship battles from the shore and tending to the needs of the people in the camp of La Vigilia. Still, other days, I felt like an ambassador as I accompanied some of the leaders on special missions to make educational presentations in faraway communities.

I have to catch my flight in a few minutes, but I just wanted to capture this feeling so that I never forget it. I already know that I must come back to this place— to these coordinates on the map, but also to this place in my heart where my spirit is on fire. I can’t wait to tell you all more about this experience and to share my work with you.

With infinite love and gratitude,

Theresa

#studyabroad #Bolivia #Rurrenabaque