nuestra excursión a Potosí // our trip to Potosí
- Sep 17, 2016
- 2 min read
Potosí was intense, in many senses of the word. At an altitude of over 13,000 feet, the climate is harsh- intense sun during the day, and very cold temperatures at night. Then there's the unsettling juxtaposition of a beautiful colonial city- at one point in history, one of the most populous and luxurious cities in the world- and the horror of the mines that have sustained it for almost 500 years.
My favorite part of our time there was meeting with the organization MUSOL, which is an organization led by women, for women (http://www.musol.org.bo/potosi.html). We listened to the stories of the women, all of whom are widows of miners. They spoke of the hardships and heartbreak of living in Potosí, where nearly every family must send a father, brother, or son into the mines because there are no economic alternatives. It was inspiring to learn how they have organized to buy land for widows, educate other women about their rights, and provide scholarships to some of their children. As a woman, I was deeply moved by the ways that they have stood up to the sexism of men in their community and how they work together to empower themselves and other women. They also very kindly allowed me and a few other students to try speaking Quechua with them, which brought smiles (and laughs) to all of our faces!
Another highlight was visiting La Casa de la Moneda, which functioned as the Spanish mint from the arrival of the Spanish in the mid 16th century all the way through the early 20th century. Our eccentric guide led us through dozens of rooms, starting with paintings and objects from the colonial period. We then walked through rooms containing the various machines used to produce coins, learning about the progression of technology over the centuries. It's shocking how many human lives have been sacrificed--historically, and today- all to make silver coins and other objects. We learned that, according to some, Potosí is considered "the birthplace of capitalism". Ever wondered where the dollar sign $ comes from? There are several origin stories, but one explanation is that it comes from Potosí: the letters P, T, S, and I used to be engraved on coins as the mint mark. Stacked on top of each other, they resemble a $.
The day that we left, I walked with some friends to the Santa Basilica Cathedral, located near the Plaza Central. The inside was unbelievably opulent, but the real highlight was the fantastic view from the bell tower of the entire city and El Cerro Rico. I'll be sure to post some photos.
And of course, I cannot write about Potosí without mentioning the mines. I felt that this was an experience that needed more reflection, so I wrote a longer piece about it here.
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